Ingredients
Niacinamide serum: what can it do, and what can it not do?
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that is widely used in skincare. Published studies suggest topical niacinamide can modestly improve the look of uneven tone, redness and texture over weeks of regular use. It is not a treatment for acne, rosacea or melasma, and results from a study formula do not transfer automatically to every serum.
What does the research actually show?
Much of the best-known human research on topical niacinamide comes from controlled trials of specific test formulas, several of them run by authors linked to a large cosmetics manufacturer. Those studies reported modest improvements in the appearance of fine lines, blotchiness and yellowing compared with a vehicle. They are useful, but they are not independent confirmation, and they tested particular concentrations in particular bases.
A separate 50-person study of a niacinamide-containing moisturiser in people with rosacea reported barrier improvements. None of these studies tested the JorgObé serum, and a moisturiser study does not make any serum a rosacea treatment. That is why we describe niacinamide as an ingredient with supporting evidence for a cosmetic role, rather than a product that will produce a predictable result for everyone.
What can it not do?
A cosmetic serum does not diagnose, treat or cure skin disease. Persistent spots, flushing, patches of pigment or a changing mole need a clinical assessment, not a stronger serum. Niacinamide also does not replace sunscreen: daily broad-spectrum SPF does more for uneven tone than any single brightening step.
Concentration is not a ranking. Higher percentages are not automatically more effective, and some people find very high strengths uncomfortable.
How do I use a niacinamide serum?
Follow the product directions. Most people apply it after cleansing and before moisturiser, once or twice a day. It usually layers well with other steps, but introduce one new product at a time so you can tell what your skin is responding to.
Give it several weeks of consistent use before judging it, and stop if you notice stinging, persistent redness or a rash.
Is it suitable during pregnancy?
Topical niacinamide is commonly used in pregnancy-conscious routines, but we cannot assess an individual situation online. If you are pregnant, breastfeeding or using prescribed skin treatment, check with your pharmacist, midwife or doctor before adding new products.
A few more questions
On Serenova
- JorgObé Niacinamide Serum 50ml
The niacinamide serum we currently stock, with its own evidence note and directions.
- What actually works for pigmentation
Where niacinamide fits alongside sunscreen and other options.
- The Serenova Standard
How we describe evidence levels and their limits.
Further reading
- Bissett DL et al. Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg 2005 (Procter & Gamble-affiliated authors; tested other formulations)
- Hakozaki T et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol 2002 (industry-affiliated; laboratory and clinical work on other formulations)
- Draelos ZD et al. Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea. Cutis 2005 (50-person study of another moisturiser)
- ASA and CAP: beauty and cosmetics advertising guidance
Your next step
Start with a routine your skin tolerates. Product guidance is not a diagnosis; after a procedure, your treating clinician's instructions always come first.